Alhaddad TuningAlhaddad Tuning

Guide — Before You Start

The basics you need before tuning — whether you're taking the course or ordering a remote tune.

Note: this course is taught entirely in Arabic — video lessons, narration, and all written material. There is no English version of the course content itself.

Using HPTuners for the first time

Check the car's condition first

Before tuning, make sure the car is mechanically sound. Key checks:

• No misfire — confirm fuel delivery and spark are working correctly

• No intake manifold gasket leaks

• Healthy fuel pump

• Whether a MAF translator is present or not

• Whether an EVAP-delete is present or not

• Whether O2/exhaust sensors are present and working

• Healthy knock sensors

• Any modifications already done to the engine

• Tire size changes from stock

• Gear/differential (Ring and Pinion) ratio changes

Identify your car's ECU name and type

Before starting any tuning, identify which ECU is installed in your car — Gen 3 (P01/P59), Gen 4 (E38/E67), or Gen 5 (E92/E92A). This determines which steps and lessons apply to you.

GM ECU identification

Setting the right air/fuel ratio (AFR) targets

The ideal air/fuel ratio at idle and partial throttle is 14.7.

Going leaner than 14.7 (e.g. 15–16+) means less fuel in the mix.

Going richer than 14.7 (e.g. 13–14 or lower) means more fuel in the mix.

At wide-open throttle (WOT), target ~12.5 — the extra fuel acts as cooling and can support more torque.

For track cars under sustained WOT, target ~12 for extra cooling.

Setting up scanner files

Instead of building VCM Scanner channel layouts from scratch, we provide a ready-made channels/tables file covering the key channels you need while logging (VE, MAF, timing, AFR, and more).

Wiring a wideband O2 sensor to the scanner

How you wire a wideband depends on the connection method available. In this example, the sensor used is an AEM 30-0300, which supports both Serial and Analog connection methods.

AEM 30-0300 wideband gauge with 7 wires

The photo shows 7 wires coming off the gauge:

• Red → hot power source "+" or the cigarette lighter

• Black → cold/ground power source "-" or the cigarette lighter

• Blue → pin 2 on the serial adapter (serial method)

• Brown (analog negative) → paired with black on Pro Link (analog/Pro method)

• White (analog positive) → paired with blue on Pro Link (analog/Pro method)

Serial connection method

Needed: a USB serial adapter with a wire-connection converter, plus the wideband.

USB serial adapter and wideband

Wire the converter at pins 2 and 5, as shown in the photos.

Wiring the serial converter, pin 2
Wiring the serial converter, pin 5

Pin 2 connects to the wideband's blue wire, pin 5 to its black wire, as shown in the photos.

Pin 2 to blue wire connection
Pin 5 to black wire connection

Solder with heat-shrink insulation for a permanent install.

The final result after wiring

Final wiring result

Important: connect the red and black wires to a power source — either permanently on the car itself, or temporarily via the cigarette lighter.

Plug the serial adapter into the laptop while online — it's auto-detected; install drivers from the included CD if your OS predates Windows 10.

Then follow these steps in the scanner:

VCM Scanner channel selector setup

Analog / Pro Link connection method

Needed: an HPTuners Pro package (includes a free Pro Link cable) plus the wideband.

HPTuners Pro Link cable and wideband

Pro Link's blue wire connects to the wideband's white wire; Pro Link's black wire connects to the wideband's brown wire, as shown in the photos.

Pro Link wiring, blue to white
Pro Link wiring, black to brown
Pro Link scanner setup, step 1
Pro Link scanner setup, step 2
Pro Link scanner setup, step 3